Big Sur well worth the curvy coastal drive

The Pacific coastline and old-growth forests areThe morning was good for hiking, while afternoon
two of California's biggest scenic highlightswas the best time to drive the coast, stopping
� and these two natural wondersalong the way to visit some of the shops, general
converge nicely at one of the state's moststores and bakeries that you come across every
famous tourist attractions: Big Sur.few miles. One gets the impression that many of
Located about 150 miles south of San Francisco,the "hippies" from the 1960's ended up here at Big
this part of the California coast offers non-stopSur where, today, they enjoy a no-frills
amazement for travelers willing to drive the curvyback-to-nature lifestyle selling various natural or
Scenic Highway 1 the 90 miles of coastline thatlocally produced products. There definitely is a
today encompass the Big Sur scenic recreationnew age flavor in many of the shops that is
area. Visitors see new panoramas around everyapparent from the music, fragrances and product
curve � pristine beaches, craggyofferings.
mountain ledges, fascinating rock formations amidAnother Big Sur point of interest is the historic
swirling, sometimes angry coastal waters and, ofPoint Sur Lighthouse. This lighthouse is 19 miles
course, the giant redwood trees that swallow upbelow Carmel and is a State Historic Landmark. It
tiny vacationers posing for their vacationis 361 feet above the ocean and was operated
photographs.from the mid 1800's until the early 70['s, keeping
Keep in mind, this road was not easy to build.ships away from rocks in foggy weather.
Your scenic experience today comes at theDocent-led tours are given every Saturday and
expense of convict labor that was brought in10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
over the 18 years prior to the completion of theNo doubt about it, though � a Big Sur
road in 1937. Until Highway 1 was completed,getaway most likely will include lots of hiking on a
most of this highway probably wasn't much widervariety of trails. Here is a sampling of the most
than a harrowing goat path along the side of thepopular trails:
steep coastal mountains.Pfeiffer Falls � This trail in Pfeiffer Big Sur
While many travelers drive through the Big SurState Park is just 1.4 miles roundtrip and takes
area on the way to someplace else, the area isyou along a scenic passageway following the
also a prime destination that offers a variety ofPfeiffer Redwood Creek. You'll find this trail offers
accommodations and enough hiking to keepsome of the area's best redwood groves and
visitors occupied for weeks. Several state parksfeatures at the end a 60-foot waterfall.
and campgrounds are tucked into the coves orValley View � Also in Pfeiffer Big Sur, this
carved out of the forests to give vacationers antrail is two miles roundtrip and leads to an
authentic camping experience and entry to theobservation area where you can see the coastline
wilderness by way of numerous well-marked trails.and valley below.
A few cabin resorts are scattered along theOak Grove Trail -- This is in Pfeiffer Big Sur State
coast and there are even a couple of high-endPark and is 3.2 miles roundtrip from the Big Sur
luxury resorts charging upward of $700 a night.Lodge and intersects the Pfeiffer Falls Trail. This
Big Sur Lodge offers the only lodging in Pfeifferpasses through a variety of ecosystems including
Big Sur State Park, and, to our thinking, had justredwood groves, open oak woodlands and dry
the right combination of amenities. This resortchaparral.
offers 62 housekeeping cottages spreadMt. Manuel Trail � Also located in Pfeiffer
throughout the park where trailheads and thoseBig Sur, this is a strenuous 8-mile trail that gives
big trees are never far away. While the cottagesyou an overview of the Vantana Wilderness from
offer many resort amenities � big,3,379-foot Mt. Manuel Peak.
spacious living rooms with comfortable newMcWay Waterfall Trail � Down Highway 1
furniture, spacious bath areas with shampoos anda few miles is Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park
lotions, a massive heated swimming poolwhich features this easy one-mile hike to an
footsteps from your unit � the overalloverlook which faces McWay Falls, a spectacular
feel was like going to summer camp (for those of80-foot waterfall that drops into the Pacific
us who can remember that far back). ThereOcean.
were no phones, no televisions and, even in June,Ewoldsen Trail � Also in Julia Pfeiffer
night-time temperatures were cold enough toBurns State Park, this is a moderate 5.7-mile
start a real fire in the cottage's real fireplace.roundtrip hike that offers great views of the
Our unit featured two queen beds, one in acoastline from hillsides covered in wildflowers and
bedroom area and one in the "great room" oroaks.
living room part of the cottage. These facilities areBeach and Creamery Meadow Trail � A
perfect for families with some units suitable forfew miles north of Big Sur Lodge is Andrew
up to six people. Reasonably priced food isMolera State Park which offers this 1.8-mile
available in a full-service restaurant right on theroundtrip hike that is recommended for kids. The
property. A few other restaurants are scatteredtrail follows the Big Sur River and features many
up and down Highway 1 but our guess was thatdifferent plant species as well as redwood trees.
many guests at Big Sur Lodge were fully utilizingAT A GLANCE
the kitchen facilities that are available in many ofWHERE: Big Sur scenery starts just a few miles
the cottages.south of the Carmel/Monterey area and continues
For hikers, this kind of destination is paradise.for 90 miles before the curvy road straightens
While it did get warm in the afternoon, theout near Cambria.
mornings during our June visit were crisp and idealWHAT: Big Sur combines beautiful coasline, terrific
for walking through the thick forests of oak andmountain scenery and dense forests. Big Sur is a
redwood trees to waterfalls or climbing togreat place to vacation and visitors enjoy many
vantage points offering even more spectacularlodging land camping choices.
views of the Big Sur coastline. All trails we wereWHEN: The weather at Big Sur is moist and cool
on seemed to be well-maintained. The trails in theyear-round, perhaps a little warmer in the
general Big Sur vicinity also were varied in bothafternoon during summer months. Fog will roll in
scenery and levels of exertion. We enjoyedduring many mornings during the summer months.
sampling easy trails that led us to waterfallsWHY: The opportunity to enjoy a natural
cascading onto the scenic beaches -- and we tookexperience in some of California's most scenic
a few of the more difficult switchback trails intocountryside.
the Santa Lucia Mountains.