Beauty and Cunning: The Striped Sultans of Mangrove Forests

">And the low-frame open country boat is certainly
Tiger tales keep doing the rounds among thenot a safe place to retire even in mid-stream
community living in villages around the largestafter it is dark. The animal despite its size would
mangrove rainforests in the world -- thesilently swim through the water, leap into the boat
Sunderbans. To the villagers the big cat is 'Dakhinlight-footed, and make a swift kill. Indeed its
Rai', a sobriquet for the mighty lord of the jungles,scheming is incredible.
uttered with reverence and fear. The tiger andThis is the typical style of the Sunderban tiger's
the community in the deltaic island forests,hunting tact as against its peers in other tiger
interspersed by innumerable streams, cohabit in areserves of the country. In Ranthambore or
love hate relationship. When the striped beautyKanha for instance, the forest reserves are
strikes, the villagers mourn the deceased andsurrounded by human habitats and there are
curse the animal; and the tiger hates manroads passing through them. The predominance of
knowing that the two-legged animal around itshuman activity along these corridors push the
domain is the fiercest of all predators. So, it usestiger deeper into the forest and the big cat is
its cunning to take it one-up on him asalways wary of the man rather than making a
opportunities present itself.prey of him. These inland tigers would rather
The big cat was omnipresent all over Bengal notchase its prey full steam and pull it down.
too far away in the past. When Calcutta wasConversely, the large tiger population of
being created as a trading post in the 17thSunderban each confined to individual island
century by the East India Company, the stripedterritories, have adapted to the typical conditions
cat's domain would include the woods in theand find men on foot trespassing their territory a
peripheries of the city and it would come visitingless painstaking and easier kill than an exhaustive
the courtyards of nearby hamlets after dusk, allchase of a sprinting deer. However it shouldn't be
too often.construed that the Sunderban tiger is a
The beauty of the beast however surpasses itscompulsive man-eater. The tiger here, by natural
cunning. The Bengal tiger in its typical environmentinstinct picks its prey from the many animals in
at Sunderbans is a magnificent animal with athe bushes. It is only the silly mistakes of man
slightly redish-yellow coat than the ochre-yellowthat makes him the occasional victim.
look on its counterparts in other reserves of India.Hiru's body was not found but the tiger footprints
In its natural home at Sunderban, it has theconfirmed he was carried into the bushes may be
largest concentration with about 249 animals bya few kilometres away. The striped Sultan can
the last authenticated UN Tiger census 2004. Itscarry its kill to great distance with élan, to
grace and majestic strides in the undergrowth offeed undisturbed in the undergrowth.
the thick rainforest would hardly have anyWe reach the village in less than twenty minutes,
contest to the claim of 'Sultan of the Jungle' andpassing through a web of streams locally called
as the national animal of the country.'khola'. This was a large settlement in one of the
Sunderban gets its name from the abundance ofdelta islands. Our local facilitator was waiting on
'sundari' trees [Heritiera fomes] in the region. It isthe shores to take us to the community elders.
spread over the largest delta in the world sharedHe had already briefed the villagers about the
between India and neighbouring Bangladesh. Thepurpose of our visit and had arranged a few
Indian tiger reserve spreads over 2,500 sq. km.homes where our visitors could interface in their
across 54 islands interspersed by innumerabledaily life. Our European visitors were excited with
large and small rivulets and offers a distinctlythe idea of having a day with these welcoming
hospitable biosphere for the tiger compared tovillagers and experience their way of life up close.
other inland tiger reserves. Sunderban wasThe first curious encounter they had was with a
declared a world heritage site in 1997 by UNESCO.group of males each of who wore a mask of a
Unlike the inland locations where the tiger usually ishuman face at the back of their heads. They
the supreme predator in its domain, the tiger atwere honey gatherers walking in a row towards
Sunderban has to compete with large deadlythe deeper woodlands. It was an amusing sight of
Crocks in the water, which it has to continuouslymen marching ahead wearing big-eyed masks
cross within the individual territories. And theogling at you from rear of their heads. This, we
adjustment between the two fierce rivals is,explained to the visiting group was a way to trick
surprisingly respectful. Both revere one anotherthe big cat into believing that it was being
and confrontations are rare.watched by all the men if it attempts to stealthily
It was mid January and I was accompanying astalk them from the rear. Most times in the battle
small group of eight backpackers from Europe toof nerves between the cat and humans, the cat
the area. The tour was customised to addressbreaks off the trail. Sometimes the cat emerges
the visitor's needs of jungle adventure as well assmarter and there is someone who is killed or
gain insights on indigenous community life throughmauled.
cultural immersion programme.As it is, many of these settlements have fewer
We travelled from Kolkata by road first and thenmen against women population. People here have
took a motor-launch through the Matla River toto make a living out of the forests or the river,
an island camp near Sajnekhali. Jungle expeditionscollecting honey or catching fish. Both these
and folk culture programmes were planned at theprofessions are fraught with danger to life.
camp and community interactions at theFrequent casualties happen either by being prey
surrounding villages were in the itinerary too. Ito the tiger or the Crock in the river. The
would be the interpreter and facilitator on thesettlement we were visiting now had as many as
community interface.300 widows, having lost their spouses to either of
The boat cruises through the web of rivuletsthese foes or to diseases or hurricanes in the sea.
over the first two days during the stay wasThere is a tradition of worshipping the 'Bon Bibi', or
unrewarding as far as spotting of the big cat wasthe forest goddess by the womenfolk here. Each
concerned. After all, the animal isn't ever trustingseason when their men enter the forest to
of the human. However it could be imagined withgather honey, the wives would perform special
a fair degree of certainty that during our errandsoblation to appease the goddess so that their
many of the striped Sultans would have kept amen return safe. And in a show of expiation, they
watchful eye on us but it wouldn't reveal itswould also take on temporary widowhood till their
presence. Our team however sighted large bevymen actually returned. That's the way of life
of spotted deer and drift of wild boars, the mainwhen human and animals have to share a nature
prey of the tiger occasionally, alongside wonderfuldomain.
birds and other animals.Despite the compulsions of man to sustain in an
Crocodiles scattered around the banks basking inenvironment of nature conservation, I believe
the morning sun was a regular sight. They wouldthere is a positive side to it. The majesty of the
quickly slip into the water the moment our boatBengal tiger although considered a threat to their
came at close distance. To think of the dozens ofexistence by the locals, is in effect a direct check
these big-jaw reptiles now swimming under theon the wilful onslaught of nature by unconcerned
vessel as we passed by, in itself was an eeriepeople. Consider it this way; the threat of the
feeling.tiger in the jungle and the Crocks in the river has
On the third day after the morning fog lifted, webeen the major discouragement for the
took a country boat trip to a neighbouring islandcommunities living here from deforesting the area
village for the foreign visitors to have a hands-onand expanding human activities. And the clear
experience of the community life of theupshot is -- advantage conservation.
inhabitants. As we settled in the hold of the boat,Tiger poaching in Sunderban has never been a
I asked the boatman if he knew of the presencematter of deep concern since the elusive beast is
of any tiger around that we could spot during thisalways hard to get at in the difficult terrain of the
short journey. He appeared a bit tensed anddeltaic forests. Yet, wood plundering was a
offered a nonchalantly reply, 'the same old storygrowing threat on conservation of this eco
Sir, last night Hiru a youth was taken away fromsystem. Happily in recent years there has been
his boat by the tiger, after he fell asleep.' All thisalternative livelihood for these people connected
happened at a place close to the camp weto eco tourism in the area. The initiative of private
stayed. So the tiger was in the backyard, yetplayers involving communities here to set up
none could sense it, not even the victim.green tourism facilities has become a good option
That's the cunning of the beast. It would patientlyfor the poor indigenous people to eke out their
stalk, keep the human target in sight until heliving. Sunderban now is a wonderful location to
drops his guard and then stealthily pounce andenjoy in the real sense of eco tourism.
make a swift getaway before others could react.Until next time...